How to Use a Slicker Brush Like a Pro: A Step-by-Step Guide for Pet Parents
- 2 hours ago
- 12 min read
One of the most common things I hear from pet parents is, “I brush him all the time, I do not understand how he still gets matted.” When I take a closer look, the issue usually is not effort. It is technique.
The slicker brush is one of the most powerful tools you can use at home to maintain your dog’s coat. When used correctly, it removes loose hair, prevents painful mats, improves airflow to the skin, and keeps your dog looking freshly groomed between appointments. When used incorrectly, however, it can miss hidden tangles or even irritate the skin.
After more than 15 years of working hands on with every coat type imaginable, from dense doodle curls to thick double coats, I can tell you that mastering the slicker brush makes a noticeable difference. It saves money on dematting fees, reduces stress for your dog, and keeps grooming visits smoother and safer.
I will walk you through exactly when to use a slicker brush, how to use it properly, and the common mistakes I see pet parents make every day. With the right technique, you can brush your dog like a professional and keep that coat healthy, comfortable, and mat free.
What Is a Slicker Brush and What Does It Actually Do?
A slicker brush is a grooming tool designed with fine, short wire pins set closely together on a flat or slightly curved base. The pins are typically angled and mounted on a flexible cushion, allowing them to move gently with the coat rather than scraping against the skin.
While it may look simple, this brush is specifically engineered for coat maintenance, not just surface smoothing.
What a Slicker Brush Is Designed to Do
When used properly, a slicker brush helps:
Remove loose undercoat and dead hair
Separate light tangles before they become mats
Fluff and lift the coat for even trimming
Maintain airflow to the skin
Extend the time between professional grooming appointments
In the salon, I rely on a slicker brush daily for prep work, fluff drying, and finishing. It is one of the few tools that can both detangle and create a polished look when used with correct technique.
Coat Types That Benefit Most From a Slicker Brush
Not every dog needs one, but for certain coat types, it is essential.
Slicker brushes are especially effective for:
Bichons
Double coated breeds such as Golden Retrievers and Australian Shepherds
These coat types are prone to tangling, matting, or dense undercoat buildup. A slicker brush helps manage that density before it turns into a larger problem.
When a Slicker Brush May Not Be Necessary
For very short, smooth coated breeds such as Boxers or Beagles, a rubber curry or bristle brush is typically more appropriate. A slicker brush does not provide much benefit for extremely short coats and may irritate sensitive skin if overused.
When Should You Use a Slicker Brush?
Knowing how to use a slicker brush is important, but knowing when to use it is just as critical. Timing and coat condition make a significant difference in how effective and safe your brushing session will be.
Over the years, I have found that most brushing problems happen because the brush is used at the wrong time or on the wrong coat condition.
The Best Times to Use a Slicker Brush
A slicker brush works best when the coat is clean, dry, and ready to be separated properly.
Use a slicker brush:
After a bath and thorough blow dry: Brushing a freshly dried coat allows the pins to move through clean hair without dragging debris or compacted oils.
During routine maintenance brushing: For curly, long, or dense coats, regular brushing prevents small tangles from tightening into mats.
Before finishing with a metal comb: The slicker loosens and separates the coat. The comb confirms everything is truly detangled.
When the coat feels thick, clumpy, or dull: These are early warning signs that tangles are forming beneath the surface.
When You Should Not Use a Slicker Brush
There are situations where a slicker brush can cause more harm than good.
Avoid using it:
On severely matted coats without preparation: Tight mats need proper de-matting techniques, conditioning sprays, or professional attention. Forcing a slicker through them is painful and risks skin injury.
On dirty coats: Dirt creates friction. Brushing a dirty coat can cause breakage and discomfort.
On irritated or inflamed skin: If your dog has hot spots, rashes, or active skin infections, brushing should be paused until cleared by a veterinarian.
On very short, smooth coats: These coat types typically benefit more from rubber curry or bristle brushes.
A Professional Observation
One of the most common issues I see in the salon is “surface brushing.” The top layer looks fluffy, but underneath there is dense matting close to the skin. This usually happens when brushing is done inconsistently or only when the coat looks messy.
Consistent, properly timed brushing is far more effective than aggressive brushing done too late.
Step by Step: How to Use a Slicker Brush Correctly
This is where technique truly matters. A slicker brush is only as effective as the way it is used. In the salon, I rely on a method called line brushing, which ensures the entire coat is detangled from the skin outward, not just fluffed on the surface.
Here is the exact process I recommend for pet parents.
Step 1: Start With a Clean, Completely Dry Coat
Brushing a dirty or damp coat causes unnecessary friction. That friction leads to:
Hair breakage
Increased tangling
Skin irritation
If you bathe your dog at home, make sure the coat is fully dry before brushing. Slight dampness near the skin can tighten tangles rather than loosen them.
If the coat is dry but prone to static, you may lightly mist it with a grooming spray to reduce friction.
Step 2: Work in Small Sections Using Line Brushing
This is the most important step.
Instead of brushing over the top of your dog’s coat, gently lift a small section of hair with your free hand. You will:
Hold the upper portion of the coat up.
Brush the hair underneath, starting close to the skin.
Use short, controlled strokes outward.
Gradually lower more hair as you work upward.
Think of it as brushing in horizontal layers rather than top to bottom.
This method ensures:
You reach the dense undercoat
You prevent hidden mats
Air can circulate properly to the skin
Surface brushing may make the coat look fluffy, but it does not prevent matting underneath.
Step 3: Use Light, Controlled Strokes
A slicker brush should never be forced through the coat.
Let the pins do the work.
Use gentle wrist motions.
Avoid digging or dragging across the skin.
If you encounter resistance, pause. Hold the hair above the tangle to reduce pulling on the skin, then gently work through it with small strokes.
Heavy pressure can cause what groomers call brush burn, which is irritation caused by repeated scraping of the same area.
Step 4: Pay Attention to High Risk Areas
Certain spots mat faster than others. Be especially thorough around:
Behind the ears
Under the collar
Armpits
Inner legs
Tail base
Sanitary areas
These areas experience friction and moisture, which accelerate tangling.
Step 5: Follow With a Metal Comb
This is your final check.
After brushing a section, run a metal comb from skin to ends. If the comb glides through smoothly, the coat is properly detangled. If it catches, more brushing is needed.
In professional grooming, we often say, “The comb does not lie.” It confirms whether the coat is truly mat free.
Using this step by step approach transforms brushing from a quick surface task into true coat maintenance. In the next section, I will explain the most common slicker brush mistakes I see pet parents make and how to avoid them.
Common Slicker Brush Mistakes Pet Parents Make
Even with the best intentions, small technique errors can lead to matting, discomfort, or coat damage. In the salon, I can often tell within a few minutes how brushing has been done at home. The coat tells the story.
Here are the most common slicker brush mistakes I see, and how to correct them.
1. Surface Brushing Only
This is by far the most frequent issue.
The top layer of the coat looks fluffy and clean, but underneath there are tight mats close to the skin. This happens when the brush only glides over the surface without sectioning the coat.
How to fix it: Use the line brushing method described earlier. Always work from the skin outward in small sections.
2. Brushing Too Aggressively
Many pet parents believe that more pressure equals better results. In reality, excessive force:
Irritates the skin
Causes brush burn
Makes dogs resistant to brushing
Breaks healthy coat
If your dog pulls away or flinches, pressure is likely too heavy.
How to fix it: Use light, controlled strokes and let the pins do the work. If you meet resistance, slow down rather than pushing harder.
3. Waiting Too Long Between Brushing Sessions
Brushing once the coat already feels thick or tangled makes the process more difficult and uncomfortable.
Small tangles tighten quickly, especially in curly or friction prone areas.
How to fix it: Brush consistently based on your dog’s coat type. Preventing mats is always easier than removing them.
4. Skipping High Friction Areas
Behind the ears, under collars, armpits, and tail bases are often overlooked. These areas mat faster due to moisture, movement, and friction.
How to fix it: Make these spots part of every brushing routine, even if the rest of the coat looks fine.
5. Using the Wrong Slicker Brush
Not all slicker brushes are the same. A brush that is too firm can irritate sensitive skin, while one that is too soft may not penetrate a dense coat.
How to fix it: Choose a brush appropriate for your dog’s coat density and size. Puppies and fine coated dogs often need softer pins, while dense doodle coats require firmer ones.
6. Skipping the Metal Comb Check
Brushing alone is not always enough. Without combing afterward, hidden tangles can remain undetected.
How to fix it: Always follow your slicker brush with a metal comb from skin to tip. If the comb catches, more work is needed in that area.
Brushing should never feel like a struggle between you and your dog. When technique is correct and sessions are consistent, slicker brushing becomes routine maintenance rather than a stressful event.
I will break down how often you should use a slicker brush based on coat type so you can build a schedule that works for your dog.
How Often Should You Use a Slicker Brush?
There is no universal brushing schedule that works for every dog. Frequency depends on coat type, length, lifestyle, and how often your dog is professionally groomed. In my experience, consistency matters far more than intensity.
It is better to brush lightly and regularly than to wait until the coat becomes difficult to manage.
Below is a practical guideline based on coat type.
Curly and Doodle Coats
Breeds such as Poodles, Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, and Bichons require the most maintenance.
Recommended frequency: 3 to 5 times per week, sometimes daily if the coat is kept long.
Curly coats tangle quickly because shed hair gets trapped within the curls rather than falling away. Even a few missed days can allow small knots to tighten close to the skin.
If your doodle is on a longer grooming schedule, frequent brushing at home becomes even more important.
Double Coated Breeds
Golden Retrievers, Australian Shepherds, Border Collies, and similar breeds benefit from regular undercoat maintenance.
Recommended frequency:1 to 3 times per week.
During heavy shedding seasons, brushing may need to increase temporarily to control loose undercoat and reduce buildup.
Long, Silky Coats
Shih Tzus, Yorkies, Maltese, and similar breeds are prone to friction mats.
Recommended frequency: Every other day, especially if the coat is kept longer than a short trim.
These coats mat easily in high friction areas such as behind the ears and under the legs.
Short Coats
Very short, smooth coated breeds typically do not require a slicker brush. A rubber curry or bristle brush used weekly is usually sufficient.
How Grooming Appointments Affect Brushing Frequency
If your dog is on a consistent 4 to 6 week grooming schedule and kept in a shorter trim, brushing demands are lower.
If appointments are spaced further apart or the coat is kept long and fluffy, home maintenance must increase accordingly.
I always tell pet parents that coat length and maintenance go hand in hand. The longer the coat, the greater the responsibility at home.
Choosing the Right Slicker Brush for Your Dog
Not all slicker brushes are created equally. The right brush should match your dog’s coat density, length, and skin sensitivity. Using the wrong type can make brushing inefficient or uncomfortable.
When clients tell me brushing feels difficult at home, the tool itself is often part of the problem.
Here is what to consider.
1. Brush Size Matters
Choose a size appropriate for your dog’s body and the area you are working on.
Small slicker brushes are ideal for faces, legs, and small breeds.
Medium slicker brushes work well for most small to medium dogs.
Large slicker brushes are best for medium to large breeds and thick body coats.
Using a brush that is too large makes it harder to control your strokes. A brush that is too small increases brushing time and fatigue.
2. Soft Pins vs. Firm Pins
Slicker brushes come in varying pin firmness levels.
Soft pin slicker brushes are best for:
Puppies
Fine or thin coats
Dogs with sensitive skin
Maintenance brushing on regularly groomed coats
Firm pin slicker brushes are best for:
Dense doodle coats
Thick double coats
Heavy undercoat removal
Coats that tangle easily
If your brush bends excessively and does not penetrate the coat, it may be too soft. If your dog flinches or shows irritation, it may be too firm.
3. Curved vs. Flat Slicker Brushes
Flat slicker brushes offer controlled, precise brushing and are ideal for beginners.
Curved slicker brushes follow the contour of the body and can speed up brushing when used properly.
Both can be effective. Technique matters more than shape.
4. Quality and Construction
Look for:
A flexible cushion base
Evenly spaced pins
Smooth, rounded pin tips
A comfortable handle with good grip
Cheap brushes often have sharp or poorly finished pins, which can irritate the skin.
A Practical Recommendation
If you are unsure which slicker brush to choose, start with a medium firmness brush that matches your dog’s size. For dense curly coats, a professional grade firm slicker combined with a metal comb is often the most effective pairing.
Remember, the goal is controlled, comfortable brushing that reaches the skin without causing irritation.
How to Make Slicker Brushing a Positive Experience
Even with perfect technique, brushing will not be successful if your dog is stressed or resistant. In the salon, I have learned that calm, consistent handling makes a greater difference than speed.
Brushing should feel like routine care, not a wrestling match.
Here is how to set both you and your dog up for success.
Keep Sessions Short and Consistent
Long brushing sessions can overwhelm dogs, especially puppies.
Aim for 5 to 10 minute sessions at first.
Focus on one or two sections per session if needed.
End on a calm, positive note.
Short, frequent sessions are more effective than infrequent, lengthy ones.
Create a Calm Environment
Choose a quiet area without distractions. Avoid brushing when your dog is overly excited or tired.
A stable surface, such as a grooming table with a non slip mat or even a secure countertop for small dogs, helps maintain control and safety.
Your own energy matters as well. Dogs respond quickly to tension or frustration.
Use Positive Reinforcement
Reward calm behavior with:
Gentle praise
Small treats
Breaks between sections
This builds positive associations with brushing rather than resistance.
Watch Your Dog’s Body Language
Pay attention to subtle signals:
Lip licking
Turning the head away
Tensing muscles
Pulling the paw back.
These may indicate discomfort or stress. If you see these signs, pause and reassess your pressure or technique.
Be Gentle in Sensitive Areas
Armpits, inner legs, and behind the ears are more sensitive. Slow down in these spots and use lighter strokes.
If your dog strongly resists a specific area, there may already be a tight mat present. Forcing the brush through it can damage trust and skin.
Over time, consistent, gentle brushing becomes part of your dog’s normal routine. Many of my long term clients’ dogs eventually relax during brushing because it is predictable and comfortable.
Final Thoughts: Brushing Like a Professional at Home
Using a slicker brush correctly can completely change the way you maintain your dog’s coat. The difference between surface brushing and proper line brushing is the difference between a coat that looks fluffy for a day and one that stays healthy, comfortable, and mat free long term.
If you remember nothing else, focus on these core principles:
Always brush a clean, completely dry coat
Work in small sections from the skin outward
Use light, controlled strokes
Pay attention to high friction areas
Follow with a metal comb to confirm the coat is fully detangled
Consistency will always outperform force. Gentle, regular maintenance prevents painful mats, reduces stress during grooming appointments, and keeps your dog feeling comfortable in their own skin.
I have seen firsthand how much easier grooming becomes when pet parents master this skill at home. Appointments are smoother, coats stay longer, and dogs are far less anxious because they are not dealing with tight tangles.
If you are unsure whether your brushing technique is effective, ask your groomer to demonstrate line brushing at your next visit. Most professionals are happy to show you exactly what your dog’s specific coat requires.
If you found this guide helpful, consider exploring my related articles on preventing mats between grooming appointments and choosing the best brushes for your dog’s coat type. And if you have questions about your dog’s specific breed or coat, feel free to share them. Proper coat care is not just about appearance. It is about comfort, skin health, and overall wellbeing.
